Ojos del Salado — Chilean Route
✓ Verified against the agency · —The standard approach from Copiapó via Laguna Verde. Three established refugios on the Chilean side make this the most popular route, though 'refugio' here means spartan shipping containers, not mountain lodges. Day 5 typically includes a full ascent of Volcán San Francisco (6,018m) for acclimatization — a legitimate 6K summit in its own right. The final 100m snow slope and 30m chimney pitch (YDS 5.6) at 6,850m require crampons, ice axe, harness, and helmet. Success rate is roughly one in three attempts.
Safety classification
October to March only (Sernatur: 'desde octubre a marzo'). Not safe April–September: austral-winter storms and extreme cold close the mountain. Even in season, DIFROL suspends or terminates authorizations when adverse weather or emergencies hit the area, on ONEMI/meteorological advice — a permit is conditional, never a green light.
- ▲Extreme altitude (6,893 m): DIFROL warns physical effort at altitude is dangerous for anyone without compatible health — acute mountain sickness, HAPE/HACE risk on summit day
- ▲Violent wind and storm shutdowns: authorizations are conditional on weather; DIFROL/ONEMI can order suspension mid-expedition
- ▲Extreme remoteness with no rescue service: climbers bear all rescue and evacuation costs themselves (DIFROL permit condition); rescue insurance can be imposed
- ▲Ice and snow fields near the summit requiring crampons and ice axe; parties of fewer than two can be refused authorization
6,893 m volcano, the highest on Earth — this is high-altitude mountaineering, not trekking. DIFROL authorization is mandatory for anyone domiciled outside Chile: apply at least 20 days before entering Chile (free, online), with full roster, detailed itinerary and a non-participating emergency contact; DIFROL can require a minimum two-person party and rescue insurance. On arrival you must check in with the local Carabineros unit, who verify the permit and your equipment. No law requires a guide, but the altitude, the remoteness and the at-your-own-cost rescue regime make unsupported ascents a serious gamble — climb with an expedition operator.