Aneto via Ibón de Salterillo
✓ Verified against the agency · AEMETThe glacier-avoidance bypass Guardia Civil and FAM have recommended since 2022–2023, when the direct Portillón Superior line began exposing hard, crevassed fossil ice that is difficult to self-arrest on. From Refugio de la Renclusa, the route crosses the Collado de la Renclusa (2,295m) and skirts Ibón de Salterillo (~2,460m) via moraine and granite slabs, rejoining the classic route near Collada de Coronas for the final push to the summit. Check the current-year advisory before choosing between this and the direct route — the safe window shifts year to year.
Safety classification
The agency's recommended summer line, especially once the glacier's snow cover has melted and ice is exposed (typically from late June/early July through September; the switch date is published each year by Montaña Segura). In early season with snow on the glacier, the Portillón Superior line is preferred instead. Not safe: winter/spring, storm days, or without ice axe and crampons — required 'casi todo el año'.
- ▲Summit slopes still cross snow/ice near the top; ice axe and crampons imprescindible almost year-round
- ▲Unmarked high-mountain terrain: canchales (block fields), moraine and granite slabs navigated by cairns above Plan de Aiguallut
- ▲Puente de Mahoma: very aerial exposed ridge scramble to the summit
- ▲Very long day: 18.9 km, 1,560 m gain, 9h20 estimated from La Besurta; afternoon storms
- ▲Rockfall risk on loose terrain
This is the variant the agency, GREIM and local guides now push as the standard summer normal route because it minimizes time on the decaying glacier and dodges the Coronas rockfall zone — it does not make Aneto a hike. MIDE severity is still 5/5, the summit approach still touches snow/ice, and the Puente de Mahoma is unchanged. Full alpine kit and experience, or a licensed guide.