What Choquequirao is
Choquequirao sits at 3,033m on a ridge above the Apurimac River canyon, roughly 100 km west of Machu Picchu. It was likely built during the reign of Tupac Inca Yupanqui (Pachacuti's son) and expanded by Huayna Capac. The site covers approximately 1,800 hectares — three times the area of Machu Picchu.
Only an estimated 30-40% has been excavated. The rest remains buried under jungle vegetation.
Current annual visitors: approximately 5,000-10,000 people. On a busy day, 20-50 people. On a quiet day, you might share the ruins with a handful. Compare this to Machu Picchu's 5,600 daily visitors.
The difference is access. There are no trains, no buses, no shortcuts to Choquequirao. The minimum approach is a 4-5 day trek involving a 1,500-meter descent into the Apurimac canyon and an equally demanding 1,500-meter climb out the other side to the ruins.
The approach from Cachora
The standard route to Choquequirao starts and ends at Cachora (2,850m), a small town approximately 4 hours by road from Cusco.
Day-by-day: Choquequirao round trip (4-5 days)
Day 1: Cachora → Chiquisca (16 km)
Elevation: 2,850m → 1,500m. Loss: -1,350m. Time: 5-6 hours.
From Cachora, the trail descends relentlessly into the Apurimac River canyon — one of the deepest in Peru. The first viewpoint of Choquequirao appears across the canyon, tiny and impossibly distant on the opposite ridge. The scale of what lies ahead becomes viscerally clear.
Camp at Chiquisca (or Playa Rosalina near the river at ~1,500m). Hot. Tropical vegetation. Mosquitoes.
Day 2: Chiquisca → Choquequirao (8-10 km)
Elevation: 1,500m → 3,033m. Gain: +1,533m. Time: 6-8 hours.
The hardest day. From the river bottom, the trail climbs 1,533 vertical meters to the ruins. The gradient is sustained and steep, largely on exposed switchbacks through dry scrub below and cloud forest above. Mules carry gear; you carry yourself.
Arrive at Choquequirao camp in the afternoon. The ruins spread across the ridge above.
Day 3: Choquequirao exploration (full day)
A full day at the site. The main plaza, ceremonial sector, agricultural terraces cascading down the hillside, and the distinctive llama terraces on the western face. Unlike Machu Picchu, there are no circuits, no time limits, no entry slots. Wander freely through excavated and unexcavated sectors.
What makes Choquequirao distinct is not just the absence of crowds — it is the presence of jungle. Unexcavated buildings emerge from vegetation. Walls are half-covered in moss and tree roots. The site feels closer to what Bingham encountered at Machu Picchu in 1911 than anything Machu Picchu itself now resembles.
Days 4-5: Return to Cachora
The same route in reverse: 1,500m descent to the river, 1,350m climb to Cachora. Most trekkers split this into two days. Some operators offer a faster return on day 4 for those with strong fitness.
The combined route: Choquequirao to Machu Picchu (8-9 days)
For those who want both Inca cities on foot, the combined route continues from Choquequirao over Yanama Pass to Machu Picchu:
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| Distance | ~93 km |
| Duration | 8-9 days |
| Max altitude | ~4,600m (Yanama Pass) |
| Difficulty | Very Hard — massive cumulative elevation change, remote trail |
| Permit required | No quota for Choquequirao; separate Machu Picchu entry |
| Cost range | $540-$1,200 (8-day guided) |
The route: Cachora → Apurimac canyon → Choquequirao → continue over Yanama Pass (~4,600m) → descend to Santa Teresa → Aguas Calientes → Machu Picchu. Cumulative ascent exceeds 7,000m. This is the most physically demanding multi-day trek in the Cusco region.
The section between Choquequirao and Santa Teresa is remote — limited resupply, few other trekkers, and trail conditions that deteriorate in wet season. Independent trekking is technically possible but strongly discouraged. Guided groups carry sufficient food and emergency communication.
The cable car
A cable car project has been proposed since 2011. The plan: a 10.6 km aerial tramway from the Apurimac side that would reduce the multi-day approach to a 20-minute ride.
Current status (May 2026)
The project is structured as a Public-Private Partnership (PPP) with an estimated investment of $220-261 million USD. PROINVERSION (Peru's public investment agency) was expected to launch tenders between February and April 2025, but the process has been delayed. As of May 2026:
- No operator has been awarded the contract
- No ground has been broken
- No confirmed completion date exists
- The project remains viable but is at least 5-7 years from operational service assuming a contract is awarded in 2026
Projected impact
- Before cable car: 5,000-10,000 visitors per year
- After cable car: Projected up to 1.2 million visitors per year
Environmental groups warn the route would fragment one of the southern Andes' most important biological corridors, threatening Andean condor, spectacled bear, and puma habitat. Archaeologists note the site is still actively under excavation and lacks basic infrastructure — restrooms, medical care, sanitation — to handle mass tourism.
The window
The cable car has been "about to start" for a decade. But the PPP is now formally structured, PROINVERSION is actively managing the tender, and political will exists because the Cusco region needs tourism revenue diversification beyond Machu Picchu.
Even with optimistic timelines, the window is 5-10 years. After that, Choquequirao becomes a different experience — accessible, crowded, and managed. What exists now — a city the size of Machu Picchu with 0.5% of its visitors, 60-70% still buried, no railings, no circuits, no time slots — will not survive mass access.
Logistics
Getting to Cachora: Private van from Cusco (4 hours) or public bus to Abancay, then colectivo to Cachora. Most operators provide Cusco pickup.
Permits: No government trekker quota for Choquequirao. If continuing to Machu Picchu, a separate citadel entry ticket is required (S/152-200 via tuboleto.cultura.pe).
Operators: Budget $540-$700 for the 8-9 day combined route. Premium up to $1,200. Choquequirao-only round trips (4-5 days) run $350-$600.
Independent trekking: Possible for the Choquequirao round trip. Basic meals and camping are available at established campsites along the route. The combined route to Machu Picchu is strongly recommended as guided due to the remote Yanama Pass section.
Mule support: Available and recommended. The 1,500m climbs are punishing with a full pack. Mule rental runs $15-25/day.
When to go: May-September (dry season). The trail is exposed and hot in the canyon bottom; shade is limited. Carry 3+ liters of water. Avoid December-February — trail washouts, mud, and river crossings become dangerous.
What to bring
The Choquequirao trek is more physically demanding and more remote than the Inca Trail. Key additions to a standard trekking kit:
- Sun protection: The canyon descent and ascent are fully exposed. High-SPF sunscreen, hat, and sun-protective clothing are essential.
- Insect repellent: The canyon bottom (1,500m) is tropical. Mosquitoes are present, particularly near the river.
- Extra water capacity: 3-4 liters for the climb days. Water sources are limited on the exposed ascents.
- Warm layers for altitude: If doing the combined route, Yanama Pass at 4,600m requires full cold-weather trekking gear.
- Cash: No ATMs between Cusco and Cachora. Bring sufficient soles for tips, emergency supplies, and any village purchases along the route.
The honest assessment
Choquequirao is not for everyone. The 4-5 day round trip involves nearly 6,000m of cumulative elevation change to reach a site that, while extraordinary, has less restored architecture than Machu Picchu and no infrastructure beyond basic campsites.
The people who should go: those who value remoteness over convenience, those who want to experience an Inca site before tourism infrastructure transforms it, those with strong fitness and heat tolerance, and those who want a trekking challenge that exceeds the Inca Trail and Salkantay in raw physical demand.
The people who should not: those with limited time (minimum 4-5 days for Choquequirao alone, 8-9 for the combined route), those who struggle with sustained steep ascent, and those expecting Machu Picchu-level restoration and interpretation.
What you find at the ruins
Choquequirao is not a smaller version of Machu Picchu. It is a different kind of site — larger, wilder, and fundamentally unfinished in its archaeological state.
The main plaza sits at the top of the ridge with views in every direction — the Apurimac canyon to the south, snowcapped peaks to the north. The ceremonial buildings around the plaza show the characteristic Inca trapezoidal doorways, fitted stone walls, and niches for offerings.
The agricultural terraces are massive — cascading down the hillside in long parallel strips. Unlike Machu Picchu's terraces, which have been restored and maintained, Choquequirao's are partly overgrown. Trees grow from the walls. Vegetation reclaims the stone. The effect is closer to what Bingham saw in 1911 than anything at modern Machu Picchu.
The llama terraces on the western face are unique to Choquequirao. Stone figures of llamas are built into the retaining walls — white stone inlaid into darker stone, forming images visible from across the canyon. No other Inca site has this decorative feature at this scale.
The unexcavated sectors are the most compelling argument for visiting now. Wander beyond the main plaza and you find walls emerging from jungle, staircases disappearing into vegetation, and building foundations barely visible under centuries of growth. Archaeologists estimate 60-70% of the site remains unexcavated. Every visit is, in a sense, partially an act of discovery.
No interpretation infrastructure: There are no signs, no guided circuit paths, no information panels. A guide is strongly recommended — without one, you are walking through ruins with no context. The site's history, purpose, and architectural significance are not self-evident.
The Apurimac canyon
The canyon itself is worth understanding as more than an obstacle. The Apurimac River — whose name means "The Great Speaker" in Quechua — is the most distant source of the Amazon. The canyon is one of the deepest in the Americas, with vertical relief exceeding 3,000m in places.
The descent from Cachora to the river bottom and the subsequent climb to Choquequirao traverse distinct ecological zones: dry montane scrub on the upper slopes, subtropical forest near the river, and cloud forest approaching the ruins. Birdlife is exceptional — Andean condors are regularly seen from the upper trail sections, and the lower forest hosts hummingbirds, tanagers, and the rare cock-of-the-rock.
The canyon environment also explains why Choquequirao has remained so inaccessible. There is no gentle approach. Every route in requires crossing the canyon floor and climbing the opposite wall. The cable car project would eliminate this barrier entirely, which is precisely why conservationists are concerned.
Water and resupply
Water is the primary logistical concern on the Choquequirao trek. The canyon is hot and exposed — daily water consumption of 3-4 liters is standard on the climbing days. Water sources exist but are spaced unevenly. On the ascent from the river to the ruins, there is one reliable stream crossing approximately halfway up. Guided groups carry water in bulk on mules. Independent trekkers must plan water stops carefully and carry purification.
Food resupply is not available between Cachora and Choquequirao. There are no shops, no restaurants, no teahouses along the route. Bring everything you need or hire a mule team and cook. The campsites (Chiquisca, Playa Rosalina, Marampata) have basic flat areas for tents but no services — no showers, no kitchens, no electricity.
Sources: Peru For Less — Choquequirao Trek, Sam Travel Peru — Choquequirao 5 Days, Salkantay Trek — Choquequirao to MP 8 Days, Inkayni Peru Tours — Cable Car, Inkayni Peru Tours — Choquequirao 2026, BNAmericas — Cable Car PPP, InfraPPPWorld — Tender Timeline, Ticket Machu Picchu — Choquequirao, Apus Peru — Why Now, Wikipedia — Choquequirao, Cable Car to Choquequirao, Machu Picchu.gob.pe — Tickets. 12 sources consulted. Prices verified May 2026.